I've become really adverse to the term "ruins". I don't use it, I don't like it, it's just so...ugly. When I visit an archaeological site I see beauty, incredible architecture that has survived for hundreds and sometimes thousands of years, not the destruction that the word "ruin" implies. The Kukulkán Pyramid at Chichén Itzá is hardly a pile of rubble, nor are the stunning structures of Uxmal, Cobá, Tulum and so many others that rise from the Yucatan jungle in testament to their hearty Maya construction and ingenuity.
The site of Ek Balam is one of the best examples of my "Not a Ruin!!" obsession. The stunningly well-preserved buildings look more like Hollywood movie sets than post-Apocalyptic ruins. (Let's not get into the impending "apocalypse" debate of Dec. 21, m'kay?) I visited Ek Balam for the first time recently and while the phrase may be overused in travel writing, I must say it was "breathtaking". Literally. Seriously, I was left feeling winded when I first viewed the immaculate facade of the Acropolis. It may have been the thousands (yep, I'm sure it was thousands) of stairs we climbed to reach the platform, but more likely it was the art itself that sucked the air from my lungs when I first saw it. I kept repeating one phrase over and over as I gazed upon the detailed statues, carvings and scenes carved into the glowing white rock...."No manches. No manches. OMG, no manches, no...man....ches.*" It appeared to have been made yesterday by imagineers of Maya Disney, it was simply THAT good that I couldn't believe it was 2000 years old.
Ek Balam is a very "young" city in one regard, investigations into the site only began in 1997 (unlike other sites in the Yucatán Peninsula that were plundered researched in the 1800's). There is still much to explore and learn from the site and most of the research is still not published or publicly available. It is essential to hire a guide for this experience, the locals have worked closely with the archaeologists and have information that you won't find anywhere else. (I personally believe that seeing an archaeological site without a guide is like watching a movie with the sound muted, pretty pictures, but the story is lacking). The site is not well-visited, you will not find hordes of camera-toting, gawking tourists in socks-with-sandals style or vendors hawking their goods made in China. It is a peaceful place, the ancient energy permeating the earth and air, hippies sitting in lotus position dot the grounds as they try to connect with the vibe, man. And even the not-so-hippy folks will feel it.
I won't tell you how to get there, I'm going to keep it my little secret. (Well ok, Google if you must, the info is out there.) Visit soon, before the bus tours find it. Don't rush, take your time. Spend the weekend in the pueblito of Ek Balam at the charming Genesis Retreat. And most importantly, please take the word "ruin" out of your vocabulary when discussing the ancient Maya cities (unless doomsday** really is upon us and the world is turned to rubble, then use it to your zombie heart's content!)
* "No manches" is Mexican slang for "No way! I can't believe it! You're kidding!" **note, I do not believe the world is ending on Dec. 21
For more photos, please see my Ek Balam Pinterest board
For those of you are Spanish/bird-speak impaired, that is the sound a rooster makes in Mexico. The small pueblo of Ek Balam, Yucatan echoes with the alerts of the roosters as I lie in bed at the Genesis Retreat, the only sound apart from the barking dogs in the early morning hours. Their compelling calls urge me to get out of bed, though we still cannot see the light of the sun. I continue my repose and despite the urgency of the roosters and the dogs cries, I find myself enjoying a rather peaceful moment.
It is difficult not to be at peace at the Genesis Retreat. Tucked away in the small village of Ek Balam, just off the grounds of the archaeological site of the same name, it is a refuge for people looking for a escape from the hustle bustle of big city life. Backpackers, writers, artists and history lovers gather to soak in the atmosphere and take a moment to breathe and reinvigorate, create and relax. The charming cabañas and rooms all have their own character, tucked away in the lush gardens that seem to overtake the inn. A litter of pups keep us entertained during our stay, one sweet little blind puppy almost convinced us to take her home. The house cat made her way into my bed (with some encouragement from me of course) and we had ourselves a little snuggle while listening to the roosters.
I had been itching to see the archaeological site of Ek Balam for quite some time and when I stumbled upon the website for Genesis it seemed an ideal place for us to make our home-base during our weekend trip. I had first considered staying in nearby Valladolid, but I was keen to see something new. It was settled when I discovered that Lee, the owner of the Genesis, was from my own hometown in Canada and was a journalist who had decided to leave it all behind and make the move to Mexico (sounds familiar). She invited us to join her to discover what life is like in a very small town.
We had a very busy weekend, visiting Valladolid, the art collection at Casa de los Venados, the cacao museum, the agave distillery and of course the ruins. And each time we returned to Genesis, our pace slowed down and we simply chilled. The food was a treat, particularly as Lee has her own organic ranch to supply the retreat with fresh eggs, chaya and fruit. One of the highlights of the weekend was a tour of the ranch, seeing the citrus orchard, meeting chickens and ducks, cows and donkeys (Frida and Diego, love their names) and pigs and being truly unplugged from the world. In the totally "off the grid" farm we enjoyed the BEST pancakes I have ever had in my life while learning about organic farming and meeting the Belgian tourists who were enjoying a tour around Yucatan. I had a good "chin wag" (Canadian-ism for conversation) with the lovely Lee, discussing the joys/pains of being an ex-pat, the differences between small town Yucatan/big city Cancun and the ups and downs of tourism in Mexico.
Overall, I simply loved the Genesis, the ranch, the pueblo, the whole weekend. I was somewhat envious of Lee and her small-town life, though I know that she has a tough row to hoe, running a business and a huge ranch is NOT an easy endeavour, but she manages it with aplomb, a smile and charm. I will be returning for another visit, while I am usually on the hunt for something new, there are just some places that call you back. The Genesis Retreat is one of those places.
Inner peace. Cheesy phrase really, overused by many and the true meaning of the words elude most people, myself included. I don't know that I have ever set out in search of "inner peace", but on my recent trip to Veracruz for the ATMEX convention, it kind of found me.
The last few years of my life have been...well..."chaotic". My personal growth was stunted and I was trapped in a cycle of negativity and self-doubt that seemed endless. My life situation has been improving over the last year, IMMENSELY actually, but I still hadn't found that light inside of myself that allowed me to breathe with ease and truly enjoy the good things I have in my life.
On my departure for Veracruz, I looked forward to adventure and business contacts and a break from my routine. What I did not foresee was the spiritual voyage I was embarking on. Reading the agenda for the government sponsored fam trip with 50 travel professionals, I certainly didn't anticipate a life changing experience, but that's exactly what I encountered.
Writing this is actually harder than I thought, though I have been mulling it over for more than a month. How exactly to put into words all the happened to me in that week? I guess I will try to keep it simple, the "Three Easy Steps to Inner Peace in Veracruz". And here we go.
Step One-Temazcal
Temazcal in Nanciyaga (no photo of the one in Mexico Verde, oops!)
After a day of adventure at Mexico Verde, riding mountain bikes and zooming along ziplines, we were scheduled to participate in the ancient tradition of the "temazcal". Much like a Native Canadian sweat lodge, the ritual has been used for centuries by many cultures in Mexico as a form of cleansing and communicating with the gods. Ten of us entered the pitch black dome with the wise man/healer. At first there were giggles and titters, uncomfortable moments with the unknown. As the healer began to pile on the hot stones and pour water over them, the enclosure filled with steam and we began to sweat. Profusely. And we began to share. Our hopes. Jokes. Love. The healer asked us to make our hands into fists, as tight as we could and to tense our bodies. I could feel the pressure of the years, the negative energies built up inside of me. We were then told to scream, to release it all, let it all hang out and to release the tension. And again. And again. Until I felt limp. I felt like for the first time in a long time, I was beginning to relax, making a space inside of me for something new, something positive, something light. The temazcal was getting hotter and hotter, I was sweating as though someone had poured a bucket of water over me, yet I felt light and free and in touch with the universe. As we exited the space into the fresh night air, I looked up to the stars and smiled.
Step Two- The Shamana
The next evening we found ourselves in Catemaco, Veracruz, enjoying a welcome cocktail and snacks. We were informed that our hosts had brought in some local shamans to do private cleansings. A few of us made our way to the shore of the lake where we waited our turns to speak with the wise people. It turned out that the shamans did not speak English and most of the guests did not speak Spanish, so I stepped forward to translate. These were "basic cleansings" mostly, the usual (this was not my first rodeo as they say). Ask the gods to protect, clean out negative energies, invite positive energies, tada, five or ten minutes max. When my turn rolled around, I stepped before Rosalia, she began the basics and stopped. Stopped cold. And looked into my eyes for what seemed like forever. She then reached her hand out to touch my heart and said "You are blocked here". She moved her hand to my stomach and said "And you are carrying sadness here". And she informed me that she could not continue with the regular cleansing until we had dealt with some issues.
Rosalia and I
She then proceeded to tell me about my past and my present situations...in spooky detail. I began to cry. She KNEW things. Specific things. My relationships, experiences, and my character traits, good and bad. She knew I have a bad back and that it has troubled me for 20 years. She knew that I was recovering from a bad relationship of seven years. She knew I had a son. She knew I had a new love. She KNEW. She offered me guidance, hope, insight, tools for the future. She released me and opened me up and began to fill the spaces I had created in the temazcal with light. I walked away feeling dizzy, overwhelmed and realized I had been speaking with her for more than 45 minutes. I looked in the sky to see the moon over the lake, red as blood, I kid you not. (The photos came out blurry, but the blood red moon was definitely not a figment of my imagination). A powerful and magical experience.
Lousy photo of an awesome red moon
Step Three- Dancing with the Goddess in the Clearing
The next morning we set out across the lake as the sun was rising over the mountains, destined for the nature reserve of Nanciyaga. It is known as a place where the white witches gather, full of powerful positive forces. The scenery was spectacular, magical in its own right, watching the ball of fire burst over the peaks left me speechless. We enjoyed a light breakfast, had a tour of the forest, a natural mud mask and made our way to a clearing in the trees. And then there was light. We danced. We sang. We chanted to the goddess of nature, to earth, to the cardinal points. We were cleansed by shamans as a woman sang and played the harp. And I cried. And cried. I couldn't stop myself, it was mildly embarrassing really, but it didn't matter, these were happy tears. I was being filled. I had rid myself of the negativity and the stress and the fear and the pressure and I was finally allowing myself to embrace.....ME. The positive me, the loving me, the talented and intelligent and beautiful me. Filled with light and love and joy. ME. And inner peace. The cheesy "cursi" word, but there it was. And I didn't even know I was looking for it.
So this tale is long and it's not even complete, to share it with you fully we would need to share a couple of hammocks, a cooler full of beer and a night-long chat. The story continues of course, I must take what I learned and apply it to my daily life, remember these moments when I begin to fall and share it with those who could use a lift. It's a personal tale and I thank you for listening, er, reading, I hope that it may offer inspiration or at the very least a few moments of entertainment. Cheesy or not, it's a gift that I now accept and hope to pass on. Namaste my friends, namaste.
Kelly McLaughlin (aka CancunCanuck) is a Canadian woman who picked up and left it all behind to move to Mexico in 2003. She currently lives in Cancun with her 7 year old son, five cats, one dog and her incredible, loving man. Writing is her passion, social media marketing pays the bills (and well, feeds her Facebook addiction). She explores the beauty of Mexico and shares it with the world.
